2019 Ten days in Bologna

We arrived after 9 pm at our first B and B in Bologna. It was in the center but not right in the middle of things. It was called Le stanze di Sara (via San Felice 38/5 interno), 40122 Bologna, tel. 051 555 518), e-mail: lestanzedisara@gmail.com, web: https://www.bed-and-breakfast.it/it/emilia-romagna/le-stanze-di-sara-bologna/32432?registrato=1 and facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Hotel/BB-Le-stanze-di-Sara-1410417009202457/ .At 90€ it wasn't cheap but it was okay--through a big Bolognese door, down a driveway to one of the houses "interno". In our Camera "Romantica" there was a desk and lots of storage. However, there was nowhere comfortable to sit in the house and certainly not in our small room and bathroom. Had it been warmer and drier in Bologna, we could have sat on our large balcony (on uncomfortable chairs). The place wasn't clean enough for Audre (she even looked for cleaning stuff to do it herself, but there wasn't anything except a broom, which she used). Breakfast was a cold one and set out beforehand by Sara. Each day for 7 days we had cereal (Special K and good granola) with coffee. We bought strawberries to go with Sara's bananas. We weren't thrilled with Sara's baked goods, although Dimitri ate some. 

Our first day we easily walked from the B and B to the Mercado delle Erbe and on to the Fountain of Neptune and Piazza Maggiore. We went into the Basilica San Petronius. We went on a free walking tour with JM Walking tour and had fun. Our guide, Scott, was good
(https://freewalkingtouritalia.com/674070572/orders/283e56517921dc594af418c8828ff521)

We came to Bologna because it is reputed to be the culinary capital of Italy and we are foodies. We don't know why that while living in Italy for 2 years from 1996 to 1998, we didn't visit Bologna but we didn't. Our first three meals were disappointing. Our 4th dinner at Osteria Bartolini, Piazza Malpighi 16 was very good. We had trouble making reservations at the restaurants that had been recommended--they didn't answer the phone either from the US or in Bologna. We walked by restaurants we wanted to go to and that didn't help either. 

We were able to make a reservation at the one that the Kleinmans said was divine. So on the day we changed accommodation, we whiled away the time before we could move having lunch at Drogheria della Rosa (via Cartolleria 19, tel 051-222 2529, web: www.drogheriadellarosa.it). We enjoyed our lunch and talking to the owner, Emanuele, and his staff. The lunch was good, maybe very good but it did not exceed our expectations. The food in Bologna like its Romanesque buildings is heavy. We ate the mandatory tortellini en brodo, tagliatelle al ragu, lasagna and tortelloni burro e salvia; we were underwhelmed. 

We did find some new food: a beautifully soft cow's milk cheese called squacquerone roma. So we had an alternative to parmigiana and grana padano. The cured pork called cotoletta is much better than prosciutto because it has no fat threads.

Our second accommodation in Bologna was an apartment owned by Home of Margherita Muggia (Residenza Tovaglie 5, 39 338 131 2907, vintage@armadiochescoppia.it) that we found through Homeaway. It had plenty of sitting area as well as a kitchen. We improved our comfort enormously.

We have been excellent tourists--walking and walking and taking in the city. A couple of things surprised us: the canals that made Bologna a port city and enriched it immeasurably and the Romanesque architecture everywhere. There is nothing delicate about Romanesque architecture. In the 1930s the canals were paved over so there are only glimpses here and there of what once was. We understand that the water still flows through the foundations of the city--making it a haven for mosquitos. What a great plan.

We did a three-hour circular hike around a park until we had climbed 700' to Basilica San Luca. It was a good urban hike and the view at the top even included a snow-covered peak in the distance (maybe Monte Cimone). The day we did that hike was sunny, otherwise, our weather has included some torrential rain storms. Some days we have been able to walk on foot without getting drenched because of the porticos throughout the city. They are very impressive and evidently were begun in the 11th century. At 44.4949° N, it was cold when it was raining..   

We started eating well and more to our liking when we chose fish restaurants and upscale ones. The cucina Bolognese is molto particolare and not to our liking.