Our next stop north in Argentina was Jujuy where we stayed at the Howard Johnson’s (a lifetime first). (Jujuy Howard Johnson Plaza, Guemes 864, San Salvador de Jujuy, Jujuy (54 388) 423-4846, e-mail: reservas@hjjujuy.com.ar, www.hojoar.com) They upgraded us to a suite and charged us AP$290/US $94.55, with breakfast.
Ho Jo in Jujuy or--with Spanish pronunciation--Ho Ho in Huhui
We got to Jujuy in the early afternoon and decided to go to the gym for some aerobic exercise after our car ride. I went on the treadmill and Dimitri worked out on the Stairmaster machine. There was an attendant in the gym showing me how to use the machine. When I ratcheted up the speed the attendant came back to me and reminded me that we were at 2000m/6561f and that I should be careful. Then she touched her right forefinger to her right cheek, under her eye, and pulled down a little. I guess the hand motion again meant "watch out" in that case!
There are some nicely preserved architectural treasures in Jujuy. On our first full day, we went on a 40 km/24.85 m bike ride to Dique Aliosis and met, Coco, the man from the bike shop in Jujuy who sold us new inner tubes for Dimitri’s bike (and who we thought over-charged us). He rode with us for a while but I was too slow for him. By car, we toured the Quebrada de Humahuaca (not nearly as astounding as the Quebrada de Cafayate) and the charming village of Purmamarca.
A postcard of the Quebrada de Humahuaca
The people-scape was distinctly different in Purmamarca. How the Quechua people survived the ethnic cleansing by the Spanish is probably a good story.
The seller in Purmamarca is probably Quechua
Another day we drove to Lagunas de Yala and picked up three teenage girls who were hitchhiking/hacer dedo-ing. They were from Buenos Aires and talked to us in Spanish/English on the way up on the gravel road to the lakes. They said that during school holidays they had been hitchhiking since they were 16.
On our last night in Jujuy, we had a good (not great) Arabic meal at a Palestinian restaurant called Casa de Hassan (Alte. Brown 46, (4600) San Salvador de Jujuy, fono (0388) 425-7370). It was great for a change of pace, however.
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