2015 Oaxaca, Mexico Restaurant Reviews by ALEDM

Exchange Rate US$1 = Mex$16.30

ALE and DM discussed adding ratings to our restaurant reviews and compromised on the following ratings:
HR: Highly recommended
R: Recommended
NR: Not recommended
A: Awful

One note: we always share our meals. That reduces the cost of our meals and also helps to maintain our waistlines.

Okay, now the reviews:

1.    Highly Recommended

1.1.        Zicanda (Garcia Vigil 409-A, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico tel. 951-501-0715, www.zicanta.com, contacto@zicanda.com). Yiannis Roas, from Huajuapan de León, opened the restaurant in 2014. We had an exceptionally good meal. It is described as Cocina Contemporánea—la reinterpretación de los sabores. We started with a botanita/snack called Molotes Machos (Mex$75) that were tiny dumplings (like beignets) of sweet plantain, sour cream filling, istmeño cheese and house-made black mole (mole negro). The molotes were delicious; the best we have had. The mole negro was exceptionally good (better than we had tasted before but not the best we have had. The best was at La Teca).

The next dish we shared was a soup called sope de frijol santanero (Mex$80). It came in a shell of a gourd and the kitchen split it for us. It was described as aromatized with hierba de conejo (tridax coronopiifolia (literal translation, rabbit herb) for which the famous cookbook writer Diane Kennedy says there is no substitute), arbol oil, hierba de chepiche (Porophyllum tagetoides), and Oaxaca fresh cheese. Floating in the soup was a breaded pork carnitas. The soup was absolutely delicious and was a great introduction to Oaxacan cuisine and flavors.
The sope de frijol santanero at Zicanda
For our main dish (plata fuerte) we had the pesca de dia (Mex$225) which was described as spice crusted fish with green risotto (cilantro, parsley and tomatillo) slow roasted zucchini, heirloom tomato and a smoked onion purée. The fish was a bit dry (overcooked even though we asked for it to be rare) but the waiter brought a small dish of mole negro which was delicious and delicious with the fish. The risotto and onion purée were tiny dots of sauce on the plate. The dish was good (the tomato and zucchini were very good) but not as good as our starters. With our meal we each had a glass of a cabernet from Chile (Mex$75 x 2) that was good. We ordered 3 desserts and none of them was very good or even good. One was Texturas de Durazos (Mex$60) that was described as a poached Creole peach with honey, butter, mescal cream and mint jelly. The peach did not have much taste and the preparation did not add to it. The second dessert was called Delirio de chocolate (Mex$95) and was described as salty Oaxacan chocolate grenache, crunchy chocolate cake, chocolate and sauce, organic coffee mousse and baby banana brulée. The mousse was like gelatin, the cake was not crunchy and did not taste enough like chocolate; the sauce was okay. The third dessert was the Plato de degustation de 3 sabores de nieves Oaxaqueñas (Mex$110). The 3 sabores were prickly pear, mango and burned milk. The prickly pear and mango did not taste of those fruits. The burned milk tasted very good. Our conclusion was that the dessert chef needs more practice. We spent Mex$860 and we were happy.
Delirio de chocolate looked better than it tasted
1.2.         La Teca (Violetes 200A, Colonia Reforma, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel. 951-515-0563) There was a review in Arrecife Magazine http://arrecifemagazine.com/inicio/lateca )
The proprietaria is de Deianira Aquino. We had a very good meal with the best mole negro we have eaten in Oaxaca. We sat in the garden and we were the only customers. It was not too cold; the space was protected. The restaurant describes itself as: “comida del Istmo de Tehuantepec y si te sientes un poco confundido en relación a la comida istmeña.”  Guile was our server. He was professional, informative and very good. We had a Concha y Toro Cabernet (Mex$100) and 2 Agua Mandarina that were delicious. We had 2 menu degustation (Mex$270 each). The menu started with Garnachas that were served with vinegared cabbage. They were good; we have had them before and these compared well.

The second dish was Molote de platano. The dumpling was a heavier version of the dish than we had before but the taste was good and so was the cheese. Then the next dish on the menu degustation was the Chile relleno made with a pasilla chili. It was good but the chili was too spicy for Dimitri. The fourth dish was 2 kinds of tamale: one was de Cambray with chicken, vegetables and nuts. The other one was de Elote con crema y queso. They were both delicious—the one with corn being almost like a dessert. The main courses were two: one a estofado con mole coloradito (red mole) and mashed potatoes cooked into a pie-like dish with peas. The second main course was relleno de cerdo al horno—pork cooked in the oven that was delicious and came with mole negro. This mole negro was the best we’ve tasted in Oaxaca. It was a huge portion and the restaurant packed the leftovers for us to take home. We put it in our refrigerator at our hotel and then used it on eggs for the balance of our stay. For dessert (extra cost) we had a taste of three desserts: etorreja which was a version of French toast. The second was platano fritta served with condensed milk and the third was a sweet potato sliced, served with a sugar syrup and pieces of pineapple. The dinner was delightful. We spent  Mex$840 plus tip.

1.3.        Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante (Constitucion 104-A, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel. 951-516-8889, www.casaoaxacaelrestaurante.com, info@casaoaxacaelrestaurante.com). This is a very famous restaurant that is a “must go to”. When we arrived at about 7 p.m. there were only a few tables filled downstairs. We did not go upstairs because we were told it was all open and colder. It was cold enough in the courtyard downstairs! Our server was Victor and he was very good, knowledgeable, attentive and friendly. Whenever Audre asked a question about ingredients, he brought a sample of the item with an explanation. The custom in the restaurant is that the salsa is made at the table. Victor brought the ingredients and made it with a mortar and pestle. It was very good. A tostada topped with fresh cheese was served with it. We were also brought a basket of crispy tostadas, some made with blue corn. We shared everything and had three dishes: a starter, a soup and a main dish.

For our first dish we had the Flores de calabaza (M$245) stuffed with escamoles (ant eggs), deep fried in a tempura batter and served with epazole and a pasilla chili sauce. As with the last time we ate ant eggs, we thought that they were tasteless and without texture. The dish itself, however, had varied and interesting tastes and it was very good.  Our soup was Caldo de pedra—a traditional fish soup with fish, octopus, clams, mussels and shrimp was cooked at the table (Mex$335). The cooking was a show: the fish we were shown at the bottom of the bowl were raw. Then soup was poured into the bowl. After that, hot stones were put into the bowl that cooked the ingredients with a flourish. The taste was delicious and the fish was excellent—the octopus was very tender.
The caldo de pedra being made tableside; you can see the hot rock being put in the soup
Our main was Cordera con salsa de pitiona (wild mint) with roasted eggplant purée and garlic greens. The lamb was served as a rack and it was the most tender and delicious we have ever had. The restaurant sources its ingredients either from its own farm or from local provisioners. The results are impressive. With our meal we had three glasses of wine from Ensenada— a Sangiovese and a cabernet (Mex$75 x 3). We enjoyed them. We had the passion fruit tart for dessert with a cup of decaf coffee. The meal was a great success and we recommend this restaurant. We spent M$1145 plus tip.

1.4.        Luvina  (Martires de Tacuhaya No. 517 esq Cosijoeza, Centro de Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel. 132-5912, luvinaoaxaca@gmail.com, Facebook: [https://www.facebook.com/Luvina-cocina-de-taller-134215060105450/]). This restaurant is very difficult to find, even for a taxi because Martires de Tacuhaya has two parts that are not connected. But persevere because it is very good. It is a nice space and is all open. Fortunately it was not cold near the kitchen where we sat. We were the only ones there for most of the evening. Around 9 p.m., one other couple arrived. Our server Guile was knowledgeable, friendly and attentive.

 The menu has very interesting items and descriptions of the items. It was difficult to choose. We have been eating so much and it has been so heavy, we tried to order a meal that would be light. We had a soup, a main and then we had to try two desserts! The chef, Carlos Garcia, had a restaurant in D.F. and has been in Oaxaca for 2 years at Luvina. He is very talented. We started with crema de frijol with squid, chili dust, tender radish and quintonil (Mex$100). The presentation was beautiful and it was delicious. For our main we ordered Codorix Asada con adobo de chile tabichen (a type of chili) that was very, very good (Mex$180). The quail had been marinated and was served with tender squash blossom stems.
The delicious quail dish at Luvina
With our meal we had two glasses of Chianti (Mex$90 x 2) and one glass of jugo de pepina (Mex$25). We were brought a classic clamped glass-lid jar (lightning jar) filled with vegetables marinated in panela with chili pasilla. They were delicious and the marinade itself was very good. The presentation was fun. The desserts sounded so good we had to try two. The chocolate mousse on powdered seed with dehydrated strawberry, pear and cinnamon ice cream (Mex$95) was a triumph. We couldn’t finish it but it was good enough to take the rest home. The other dessert was a rice pudding brioche cake with fruit in a light syrup (Mex$80). Unfortunately the cake was dry and there was no light syrup served. So we didn’t finish that either.
The rice pudding cake at Luvina
Fortunately we did not eat too much! We spent Mex$710 plus tip and were very happy.

1.5.        Pitiona, Cocina de autor (Allende 108, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel. 951-514-4707, www.pitiona.com). The word pitiona means wild mint and the restaurant is very good. We met another couple, sat together and shared everything. We had a very good time.
Dimitri and Audre with Montserrat and José Maria
We started with Gorditas de Suadero ( Mex$140) and Molotes Istmeños (Mex$95). We also shared Sopa de Fideos (Mex$85) and Ceviche de Camarón con Sandía (Mex$160). The gorditas and the molotes were very good. The soup was good but no one finished the ceviche. Dimitri and Audre had 4 glasses of Peite Sirah (Mex$75 x 4). For Fuerte we ordered Pescado con Chichilo (Mex$205) and the other couple ordered Tacos de Lechón (Mex$280). We shared one churros dessert made at the table.
Churros made in frozen nitrogen
We had a wonderful time and enjoyed the food very much. We spent Mex$1088 plus tip.

1.6.        Origen (Hidalgo 820, Oaxaca 68000, Mexico, tel (951)501 1764, http://www.origenoaxaca.com/home.html#_=_). Oscar was our server and we liked him as well as all of the others who helped him. All of the windows were open when we arrived but were closed around us when we requested that. We were going to the Guelaguetza show afterwards so we had to rush. We shared everything as usual and had two courses plus dessert. We were brought tosadas with a spicy chili salsa. For the first time dining in Oaxaca, we were automatically brought glasses of water with a slice of cucumber in them; we liked that. We also asked for a small amount of guacamole, just to have a taste. We were brought a large dish of guacamole and it was good—but maybe a little salty. For our first course we had the Tostada de mollejos de res, sweetbreads on a tostada (Mex$145), with black bean purée underneath and sprinkled with purslane and a pasilla sauce. The sweetbreads had a smoky taste and they were very good. It was a large portion and we couldn’t finish it. For our main we shared the Free range chicken (Mex$250) with mushrooms (hongos serranos) and apple purée (manzanna criolla). We asked for the chicken to be less cooked/juicy. It was perfectly cooked. The dish was very good but it had salty bacon/pork bits in it that were disconcerting. Nonetheless, it was a good dish.
The gigantic portion of chicken at Origen that was perfectly cooked
We had two glasses of red one, one Spanish (Mex$70) and one from Ensenada (Mex$80). For our dessert we had the cold soup. We had to rush out without finishing it. We think we spent about Mex$800 plus tip and enjoyed our meal (because we were rushing, Audre forgot to write down the total!).

1.7.        Cabuche (Av. Hidalgo #1017, Oaxaca 68000, Mexico, 951 514 1672, https://www.facebook.com/CabucheOaxaca#_=_). We learned about it from an article in from Arrecife Magazine (http://arrecifemagazine.com/inicio/masa-critica-cabuche). It was very close to our hotel, Marialicia (Marialicia Suites Hotel Boutique, Miguel Hidalgo 1504, Centro Historico, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oax., Mexico, +52 951 501 1202, http://www.marialiciasuites.mx/). We went twice: once for lunch and once for dinner. Both meals were excellent. The owner was there both times we were there.  For lunch, we ordered one crema de elote con huitlacoche y epazote (Mex$33) and one crema de chicharo (peas/arvejas).
The huitlacoche soup at Cabuche
We were brought tostadas and salsa and a drink with maguey. Everything was delicious. We had one jugo that was also very good (Mex$18). We spent Mex$96 plus tip for lunch.

For dinner we ordered too much food but it was all delicious and we happily ate too much! The owner was there and was helpful and attentive. We ordered two glasses of vino tinto from Ensenada and one jugo de guayaba. The juice was delicious and the wine was good. We were brought tostadas and a chili sauce, as well as bread. The chili sauce was not too spicy (for Audre) and had an intense smoky taste that she loved. It was made of huajillo, pasilla and chipotle peppers. We shared everything and started with a salad of berros (watercress), avocado, cucumber, red onion and julienned tortilla chips. It had a dressing of lemon, sea salt and olive oil (Mex$52). It was light and very good. For our mains we ordered two: Chile relleno de hongos y queso menonita (Mex$120). The chili was a poblano and the dish was excellent.
The excellent chile relleno at Cabuche
Our second main was Mogo-Mogo de platano y queso Chiapas con salsa de frijol (Mex$87). The croquette-like ball was delicious and had a blanket of verdolaga (purslane) on top. The dish was delicious too.
The delicious Mogo-Mogo at Cabuche
For dessert we shared one Arroz con leche con coco y arandanos (dried cranberries) (Mex$35). Dimitri, the expert on rice puddings worldwide, thought it was very good. We spent Mex$455 plus tip and recommend this restaurant highly.

1.8.        La Biznaga (Gral. Manuel Garcia Vigil 512, Oaxaca, Mexico, 019515161800, http://www.labiznaga.com.mx/#_=_ ). We had a delicious meal at La Biznaga (which is a kind of barrel cactus) and the service was very good too. Ricardo was our server and he was helpful and professional. He also spoke very good English. It was crowded and if he wasn’t around one of the other servers would help us. The courtyard was wide open and we worried it would be cold. We weren’t cold the night we went. We were brought an amuse bouche (we love that). It was a piece of bread with a purée of black bean on top and topped with Oaxacan cheese and tomato. It was warm and good. We ordered a jugo de tamarindo and two glasses of Carmenere vino tinto (Mex$60 x2). We liked both. There was a special crab soup on the menu (Mex$110) called Chilpachole de Jaiba. One order was split in the kitchen in two bowls. The portion was huge and excellent. The soup had fantastic taste, had shelled pieces of crab and also had pieces of crab in the shell in it. The crabmeat was very tasty. We were brought tostadas and a very good chili salsa. For our main we shared one Mazunte ($230)-a filete de atun con esparragos, tomate, aguacate y viangrete de pepitas (pumpkin seeds). This dish was huge and delicious. The tuna was perfectly cooked rare as we requested. On top of it was a mound of avocado and asparagus. Surrounding the tuna was a bed of roasted tomatoes and more asparagus. This was a truly great dish. With our main, we were brought warm tortillas. We shared one dessert called Lechuza-a tarta de manzana con helado nuez (Mex$65). It was an unusual tart but good. As other reviewers have noted the bathrooms are disgusting. We also hated the sound of the horn blasting when the kitchen announced a dish was ready for pick up.  Otherwise the meal was excellent and we recommend this restaurant. We spent Mex$565 plus tip.

2.    Recommended

2.1.        Comida Cuizzita (Comida de Barrio, Santos DeGollado #415, Colonia Centro, Centro Oaxaca, Oaxaca, tel. 951-206-9781). Our first meal in Oaxaca was at this restaurant. We could walk to it from our hotel, Marialicia (Marialicia Suites Hotel Boutique, Miguel Hidalgo 1504, Centro Historico, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oax., Mexico, +52 951 501 1202, http://www.marialiciasuites.mx/). It was a very good introduction to Oaxaca. The service was very good; with the owner always nearby. It was late and we wanted something light. We had one local beer called Tierra Grana Ceveza Roja Tipo Red (Mex$55) and two glasses of Red Wine from Chile-a Cabernet Sauvignon (Mex$80 x 2). We shared everything as usual and had one Ensalada Caliente (Mex$90) described as “Variedad de veduras a la plancha con queso de cabra, alemendras tostadas y aceite de Oliva”. It was huge. We also had one Gringas Cuizzita (Mex$90) described as “Carne al pastor con queso Manchego y quesillo con relish de mango, piña y pepino”. Both dishes were very good and very large and we could not finish either of them. We spent Mex$425 plus tip and were happy.

2.2.        El Escapulario Restaurant (de Esther Alonso Garcia, Garcia Vigil 617 Altos, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel 225-8074, cell: 951-1536598, restescapulario@yahoo.com.mx), El Escapulario was open on Sunday night and we went. There was only one other table occupied when we were there. We sat in one of the rooms by ourselves. It was cold so Esther, the propietaria, closed the windows and it was comfortable. Esther was attentive and we enjoyed our meal. We had one jugo de guayaba (Mex$30) and two glasses of vino tinto. For our meal we shared everything and had the Sopa Escapulario (Mex$75) that was filled with large pieces of huitlacoche, a fungus that has a distinctive taste (when it’s good). This huitlacoche was in large pieces and we could taste the fungus well. We liked the soup. For our main we shared the “Comal Oaxaqueño (Mex$220) a plate designed to be shared by two (actually there was enough for four). It contained tasajo, cecina, chorizo, two kinds of queso, cecina tacos, emoladas and quesadillas. The emoladas were the best by far but the other tastes were good.
Esther serving us the Comal Oaxaqueño
Actually, we would not recommend this dish because everything was made earlier and the tortillas of the tacos and the quesadillas had hardened. We would recommend dishes that were more like stews or that have lots of sauce. Esther brought us tortillas as well as tostadas (stale, not crisp). We had a postre of crepas de café (Mex$40) and we were happy enough. The meal cost Mex$415 plus tip.

2.3.        Hotel Quinta Real Oaxaca (Calle 5 de Mayo 300, Col. Centro, Oaxaca 68000, Mexico). We sat in the courtyard, not in the formal restaurant and had 2 juices that came with amuse bouche that were delicious. We were brought bread, crackers and 2 sauces a green one and a red one. We were brought peanuts and we ordered one nopal salad with tomatoes. It was huge and we shared it. It was very tasty and we enjoyed our lunch. We spent Mex$257 plus tip.

2.4.        Zandunga, sabor Istmeño (Garcia Vigil 512E, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel. 951-516-2265). We had a very good meal and enjoyed it. Alberto was our server and he was professional, friendly and knowledgeable. The restaurant has a nice design, with pleasant music. We sat at the only table with comfortable, barrel, leather chairs. The rest of the chairs are hard wood. We were brought a large plate with an appetizer of minilla, a dish of minced fish, spices and eggs. It was served with vinegared onion and 3 sauces. One of the sauces was a roasted pepper that was intensely roasted but not too spicy. We had one Chicamala red stout (Mex$65) and 3 glasses of Calix wine, a red blend of cabernet and syrah (Mex$70 x 3). For our starter we had one Garnachas (Mex $100) which were very good: tortillas de maís, frutas con carne de res, cebolla y salsa de tomate. It had a large peppercorn in it that tasted of a mild pepper and cinnamon; it was called pimento gordo. Yum! We also had a soup called Molito de Cameron (Mex$65) that was served in a calabaza gourd. It had a delicious flavor of shrimp with tiny shrimp in it. For our main course we shared one Estofado del istmeño (Mex$180) that was described as platillo tipico de las bodas istmeño con carne de res, frutas y verduras. The sauce was sweet and made with hibiscus flowers. We were very happy. For dessert we shared one arroz con leche (Mex$55) and we liked it. We spent Mex$670 plus tip.

2.5.        Restaurant Tlamanalli de Abigail Mendoza Ruiz, Comida Zapoteca (Av. Juarez No 39, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel. 951-524-4006 (abierto de 1 a 4 de la tarde).) This is a tourist attraction and a good place to eat if you happen to be in Teotitlan for lunch. The food does not compare to Oaxacan restaurants. But restaurant is very famous and one we really wanted to try.The kitchen was picturesque as were the women working in the kitchen.
The atmospheric kitchen at Restaurant Tlamanalli
We arrived late and there was only one large table finishing their meal. We were brought totopos (chips) made of blue corn (Audre thought) and guacamole as well as spicy salsa. We ordered one soup made of nopal and one soup of zucchini flower. Dimitri liked the large pieces of nopal in the soup and Audre thought the taste of the zucchini flower soup was interesting and very good. There were leaves of chepiche herb in it that were tasty. We order one lemonade (too watery but had chia seeds in it) and one Jamaica (too sweet) to drink. For our main, we shared one chicken with rice and a mole made of sesame seeds (ajonjoli). We asked for an extra plate of frijoles and an extra dish of rice as well. We were brought a small dish of black mole to taste and it was delicious—really delicious. We had two desserts: one flan and one pudding of corn. The corn pudding was good. We also had one hot chocolate made with milk. It was too watery. The meal was good but nothing to rave about. We spent Mex$778 plus tip.

2.6.        Cafe 100% Natural, (Dr Liceaga No 115, Oaxaca), www.natural.com.  We had two very good lunches. We ordered one Horchata de avena just to try it (Mex$38) and we decided we don’t like horchata. We also ordered one Pepino con limon y miel (Mex$38) which was excellent. We ordered one bottle of water (Mex$20). We shared one salad called Ensalada Jade (Mex$81)  that was excellent. It was described as “frutas exotica y pimiento rojo sobre una cama de espinacas con aderezo de cebolla, morada y cilantro”.  We spent Mex$177 plus tip and were glad we found the restaurant.

For our second lunch, we had one pitcher of jugo de pepina (Mex$85) and one fruit salad that was totally natural (Mex$76). It was huge and had 6 kinds of fruit in it: apple, nectarine, watermelon, banana, papaya and cantaloupe. Our lunch cost Mex$161 plus tip. We sat in front of a window and watched the Friday market in Parque Paseo Juarez. It was fun and our server, Noé, remember us and served us well.

2.7.        La Olla Restaurante y Galeria (Reform 402, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, info@laolla.com.mx, tel. 951-516-6668). We had a nice lunch in a room full of customers, both locals and tourists. We shared one menu del dia: Canapés de tomate (that was very good), Fidco seco, Pacado empapelado (that was huge and delicious), Agua de sandia x 2 and Stor bede de nipero. We spent Mex $115 plus tip and recommend this restaurant (the name means pot in English).

2.8.        Catedral de Oaxaca (Garia Virgil No. 105 esq. con Moreles, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico tel. 951-516-3285, www.restaurantecatedral.com.mx, e-mail: restaurante@restaurantecatedral.com.mx). We sat inside rather than on the patio because the evening was cool. The ornate room was pleasant and we had a view of the street action. Angel was our server and he was very good. He brought us an amuse bouche—a tostada with mole negro and meat. It was delicious. We were brought crisp tortillas and salsa too. We shared everything as usual. For our first dish we ordered a Tomalito de elote bañado con crema fresco y queso de petate (Mex$70). It was a very good dish and we enjoyed it. Our second dish was a soup described as Autentico caldo de guías con chochoyotes acompañado de ¼ de tlayuda con tasajo al carbon. It too was very good. With our dinner we had 2 glasses of a cabernet (Mex$60 x 2). For our main we had one of their 7 moles with turkey confit, accompanied by refried beans, rice and plantain slice (Mex$205). That was a very good mole but not the best black mole we’ve had; that was at La Teca. For our dessert we had the postre de lima, confit of citrus fruits with orange and lemon verbena sherbet (Mex$75). We enjoyed our dinner and recommend this restaurant. We spent M$630 plus tip.

2.9.        Gourmand Delicatessen (Portfiro Diaz 410A, esq. Allende, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico). It was a cute place and we liked our lunch. We had one soup of the day-carrot-that was good and one bagel with gravlax. The bagel was amazingly authentic and made at Gourmand. We also had one Mojitos traditional. We spent Mex$150 plus tip and were happy.

2.10.     Los Danzantes (Macedonio Alcala 403, int. 4, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel 951-501-1187, www.losdanznates.com). The courtyard was wide open and uncomfortably cold. We were wearing lots of layers; with everything on we were okay. We were brought tosadas and bread with 2 sauces and butter. We shared everything and ordered three dishes and dessert. We also ordered a bottle of water (Mex$20) and 3 glasses of Santo Tomas Cabernet from Ensenada (Mex$75 x3). For our starter we ordered Hierba santa rellena de quesillo y queso de cobra con salsa de miltomate (green tomatoes) y chile meco (Mex$95). It was an unusual dish and tasty. Our next dish was a soup: Chilpachole de camarón, pescado y verduras (Mex$75). The taste of the soup and the textures were excellent. Chilpachole is just a name, not a food or a place. For our main we had filete de pescado (of huachinango or red snapper) de la costa de Port Angel con costrade ceniza de chichilo, mole Amarillo y verduras (Mex $195). The red snapper was delicious, with its crust and the mole was also delicious. For dessert we had one Buñelo with cocoa flower cream, filled with seasonal fruits and served with at bitter chocolate sauce (Mex$85). This was a very good dinner; we spent Mex$725 plus tip.

2.11.     Rincon Oaxaqueno Restaurant at esq. Alcala y Humbolt. We spent Mex$100 for a complete lunch of lemon soup, beef stew with vegetables and rice, canned peaches and cucumber water. We enjoyed it. Another couple came in who turned out to be expats that live in Oaxaca and come to this restaurant often. It was fun to talk to them.

2.12.     Casa Crespo (Allende 107, Centro Historico, Oaxaca, Mexico, tel. 951-119-1910). We spent Mex$175 for 5 tabillas de chocolate for Lola, our friend from Denver who has been written up in Kroger Supermarket magazines. (See: Lola's Cocina: www.lolascocina.com and e-mail: lola@lolascocina.com.) We tasted many samples of the chocolate at Casa Crespo and didn’t like any of them so we didn’t buy any for ourselves. It’s very famous so it should be tried.

2.13.     Pan & Co  (Allende 113, Oaxaca, Mexico). We liked everything we bought there. We thought that the croissant was very good and so were Palitos and galletas de almendra.

3.    Not Recommended

3.1.         Cafe de Oaxaca Expendia y Organico, Casa La Antigua (Reforma 401, Centro Historio, Oaxaca, Mexico).  We spent Mex$95 for a fine fruit salad and water but were the only customers there.

3.2.        SP Restaurante, Comida Oaxaquena y Libanesa (Av. Independencia 902 Centro Historica, Oaxaca, Mexico tel 501-2148). We don’t recommend this restaurant. We had one Jugo de Jamaica that Dimitri did not like. He ordered the Sopa de lentejas y tallarines (Mex$55); it was watery and tasteless. Audre ordered the Sopa Monte Alban con frijol y chorizo (Mex$55); it had better taste so that’s what we both ate and it was enough for the two of us. We also ordered the Pan árabe con za’atar horneado (Mex$55). It was toasted pita chips with some za’atar sprinkled on them. Not tasty and the chips were probably from a bag. We went across the courtyard to the café where there was a laconic server. We had one coffee and one homemade cookie. They were okay. We spent about Mex$222 plus tip and we were not happy.

4.    Breakfasts

Instead of going out, we happily had breakfast at our hotel, Marialicia Suites Hotel Boutique (Miguel Hidalgo 1504, Centro Historico, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oax., Mexico, +52 951 501 1202, http://www.marialiciasuites.mx/). A restaurant will be opening in November 2015 and we recommend it. The breakfasts have been very good—actually Freddy, the chef and his assistant,Yadely,will make us anything we would want. 

5.    The Market at Tlacolula (fun!)

Went to Comedor Mary and ate Higadito, the scrambled egg soup made with chicken, that was recommended on Norma Schafer’s website Oaxaca Cultural Navigator [http://oaxacaculture.com/2015/10/higadito-oaxaca-scrambled-egg-soup-vegetarian-recipe/]. It was interesting and tasty. 
Higadito at Comedor Mary
We also had a hot chocolate there. It was watery and we didn’t like the taste of the chocolate (not unusual for us). We spent Mex$100. We also had Barbacoa at Comedor “Dona Artemia”. It was a huge portion and good. It was fun to be inside the very crowded market. We spent Mex$60 there.
Dimitri chowing down barbacoa at Comedor “Dona Artemia” at the inside market of Tlacolula
We went to Chocolate Tradicion, a shop on the main street in Tlacolula. We didn’t like the chocolate and the mole negro was too spicy. At a stall in the market we bought pimento gordo (a black pepper larger than usual that has a pepper/cinnamon taste) and saffron and sugar cane. We spent Mex$80 for everything we bought.

5.    Cuajimoloyas

Hil Sir Comedor There was a tourist office open in Cuajimoloyas and the woman there recommended we go to Hil Sir (Audre thinks that was its name) for lunch. The guide who was also in the tourist office, guided us to the restaurant. We spent Mex$50 for a delicious lunch of a Chile relleno, a Stew de championes, Frijoles and Arroz. It was cold and rainy and we also had a cup of Atole de trigo (actually two cups). Audre loved it! We were also brought avocado slices, pickled jalapeño peppers and chicheron to munch on. This lunch was great on a rainy and cold day.
Where we had lunch on a cold and rainy day in Cuajimoloyas

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