On the positive
side of the equation, our hotel in Ljubljana was delightful. Urban Hotel
(Štefanova 4 · 1000 Ljubljana, T. +386 59 110 057, e-mail: info@urbanhotel.si, web: www.urbanhotel.si) at about $148 per day,
including breakfast for a comfortable and modern room. When we walked in, the
woman at reception was delightful. It turned out each staff member was gracious
and very helpful. Our room had good wifi and a desk. It had enough storage and
a comfortable seat (for one). Our view was of the small Argentine park and it
was very quiet. The breakfast was excellent—both hot and cold and full of
interesting things to try. We had our first borek; it was good.
We had a
wonderful free tour of the old part of Ljubljana (https://ljubljanafreetour.com/free-classic-city-tour/).
It was a dry but cold day--47˚ F (and we didn’t have the clothes for that
temperature, standing around outside) Our guide, Bojan, was so good that he
kept all of us entertained and we all stayed with him for over 2 hours,
shivering. The information he gave was useful as well as informative. We
learned about Slovenian history, politics, architecture and culture. Now we
know that there was a prolific city designer and architect named Plecnik that
created the beautiful bridges and buildings of Ljubljana around the turn of the
20th century. Bojan told us about the poet, Preseren, that
contributed the words to the national anthem. At the end of the tour, he
suggested a restaurant where we could have genuine Slovenian goulash (not
tasteless Hungarian goulash). We went to Gostilna Sestica (Gostilna Sestica
[meaning “6”], Slovenska cesta 40, Ljubljana, tel 386- 02-242—0855, e-mail: info@sestica.si, web: www.sestica.si ) opposite the Neboticnik
Skyscraper (a tourist attraction). The place is large and it has a fireplace
which on that cold day was burning brightly. First, we warmed up by the fire.
The publicity says is one of the oldest gostilnas in Ljubljana and “its
culinary beginnings go back to the year 1776.” In addition to being famous for
goulash, it is also famous for tripe soup—some people get a half portion of
each and combine the two. We shared one goulash for €9,50 and it was huge, full
of meat and tasty.
We found two
excellent restaurants in Ljubljana and two we did not like. The Brit at the
table next to ours on our first night suggested we go to his favorite
restaurant, Atelje, which we did for our second night’s meal. It was an
innovative, world-class meal. Atelje in French is Atelier and it is an apt
name. But before going Dimitri stopped by to discuss the restaurant’s
requirement that we order two 5-course menus (€50 each). We always share one
appetizer and one main course, so having two 5-course meals would be way too
much food. In the end, we had two of the 5-course meals and neither of us would have wanted to miss one morsel!
Have a look at all of our Slovenia photos by clicking here and take a look at the list of dishes and the pictures of the dishes at Atelje.
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